HeavyTankBuilder

This post has been sat in my archive for far too long. I am not going to pretend it is new work - it has been up on my Instagram for some time but I thought I would show you some WIP photos and talk through some tips on making what is a very large project manageable. Hopefully of use to someone out there! Three Kinghts is a decent amount of work - but to be fair, you pretty much have an army once you are done.  To keep me motivated and to make the project achievable I broke it down into stages: 1. The Metal Skeletons 2. Panel Work 3. Bases 4. Weaponry. This approach will save you time and will help you get 3 Knights above table top quality quickly and efficiently. It won't feel like it as you go - but trust me when you reflect, you will have saved yourself some serious time.  There is also a uniformity you can't replicate from doing 1 then adding 2 later on... Take the pain and work in multiples....read on... 1. The Metal Skeletons: Army Painter Silver Rattle C...

These are the final parts I need to get my small initial Nemesis Strike Force up and running.  These were the last bits needed for my 1650pts tournament list.  As a group they come together really well, looking great on the board.  I will however admit I am not fully happy with the second Librarian.  That finecast model is pretty tired and doesn't stand up too well against the newly converted Blood Angel Librarian model.  The converted BA model has worked well and will make a good Warlord Model.

I have painted something not blue for the first time in years!  These have come out very well and I had some real success using the Tamiya Clear plaints to get some great metallic finishes on some of the surfaces.  The Blue Sword effect Kenny uses on Next Level Painting worked a treat. I hadn't used P3 paints until he recommended them; they went into the airbrush no problem, giving some great results.

All three drop pods are now complete.  Happy with the look and feel of them.  I think they fit in well with the Army and have served me well in the last few games.  I need to get better at the burn/re-entry marks made using the airbrush but that aside I think they are all good. 

Ultramarines Forge World Rhino/Razorback WIP Part 2 So a bit of a delay in getting this up, but her comes part 2 – exterior and turrets done, and now getting ready to oil/pin wash then onto weathering.   The VMA blues are great for Ultramarines and make it really easy to shadow/highlight the various parts.   (VMA Steel Blue, French Blue and Light Sea blue – VMA thinner 50:50 with Light Sea blue all at 20psi through the AB). The Ultramarines U was made using the tutorial provided by Buypainted.   A good compass and cutting tool were essential in getting an even shaped U – it took a few tries, but worth getting right.   Lining it up on the part isn’t as easy as it looks – again take time to get it right otherwise you will be repainting the blue…(only once for myself….)

Forge World Scorpion Type II – Saim-Hann With my first project under my belt, I dug out a Forge World kit that had been left under the bed for a good number of years.  I could not ge the smooth finish I wanted so parked the model to one side, but never came back to it.  All the practicing of pre-shading, zen highlighting and shading using the Falcon kits drove me to dig it out and get it done.  This will be more step by step but do ask questions below if you want something made clearer.  Again, Buypainted! gave a vast amount of guidance and inspiration - credit where credit is due! 1.                The main hull was constructed, wing-lets, tail section etc.  The turret was also built however don’t do what I did initially and leave the pulsars sperate.  The crew and smaller weapons were mounted on old sprues to...